Building log homes is a somewhat complex process and also an art. Enjoy your photo tour of the steps we take!
Step One:
The bark is pressure-washed off in our log yard. This is called power-washing the logs.
Your Log Home in the begining stage
Step Two:
We allow the logs to naturally air dry over the summer months, at least June, July, and August, layed out in our Log Home yard.
Step Three:
Here we cut flats on 2 sides of the logs.
Band saws are our choice of saws.
Step Four:
They are then placed under drying sheds to continue drying until we are ready to use them.
Step Five:
When we are ready to begin constructing your loghome, logs of the proper size are selected and carried under the log yard roof. Here they are peeled using a chain saw attachment called a log wizard. Wizarding removes any remaining layers of bark fibers which if not removed in this step will fall off on their own after a few years. By wizarding (Planing),
Your Log Home becomes Light in color and smooth while still retaining its natural character.
Step Six:
“Our Log Kits”
Are easy to reconstruct , being numbered and hand-scribed together. It’s like the old time Lincoln Logs.=) Many Log Home owners are buying their hand-scribed Log Kits from Us.
Step Seven:
10-16” Log Boss Screws are used in reassembling the log walls.
Log homes are no doubt one of the most solid homes in the world. Let the wind blow.
Step Eight:
A full-length purlin being hoisted into position.
Note the deep roof system! Not all Michigan Log Home builders offer this!
Step 9:
Few log home companies are building
the Full Log Gable Ends and Full Log Roof Purlins
that you see here.
Log Homes on the go!
NOTE the window sub jamb! There is a steel spline behind the jamb to which the jamb is fastened to instead of the logs, this way as the logs dry out and settle they slide down the steel spline without binding on the windows or doors. Knowing how to work with settling is one of the most important aspects of building a
Log Home. Notice the space above the window sub jam. That is the free area for the wall to shrink . We call this, ”our sliding sub-jamb system.”
NOTE again how deep our roof systems are! 2”x 12” rafters or 14” I-Joists are used on top of pine 1”x 8” T&G covering full log purlins at 24” O/C creating a deep cavity for 38-52 Rs of cellulose or foam insulation. We also offer Deeper roof systems with more R value if desired.